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RSO, Qwiso, Qwet, and Naturally Decarbed Sap-Tincture, Concentrates

Originally posted April 4, 2014

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This entry is a copy from my Journal I had originally posted at Roll it Up, How I Make RSO. I had made a copy just in case of a website crash, and I am very glad that I did.

I would like to share my experiences in the hopes that it is helpful to anyone in the community.

How I make RSO (Concentrated Cannabis Oil) for medicinal use and more

I use my best buds period. I manicure them very well. If you desire to use sugar shake to include with the buds, that is okay too, but I don't recommend using a lot of it. If you do desire to use some sugar shake, put it in its own jar.

First I get the buds to be as dry as possible, basically petrified.

I put two ounces of bud in a one quart, wide mouth canning jar; I do not recommend more than two ounces per jar. You may have to smoosh it in a little depending on the strain since some strains are puffier than others.

I put each two ounce jar of buds in the freezer for at least 24 hours, preferably 48.

I also put the 99% isopropyl alcohol (solvent) in the freezer to keep the temperatures consistent.

When I am ready to start the process, I pull one jar of buds and one 16 oz container of solvent out of the freezer at the same time so it will all stay as cold as possible. Each jar will require up to (2) 16 oz bottles of solvent for the initial wash or extraction.

I pour the first 16 oz bottle of solvent into the jar with buds, seal the jar and shake it around for a couple of seconds, then if necessary, I will add about 8 more ounces of the solvent. Close the lid and shake it up for about 1 to 3 minutes depending on how quickly the buds crumble. Do the second and third washes (rinse) of the same bud material, I do this for less than one minute, pretty much as fast as possible. Pour in the solvent, quickly shake it, and then pour out into the metal strainer.

Then I want to get the solvent poured out of the jar as soon as possible. I use a metal strainer so it will pour through quickly, but catch any large particles. I pour the solvent into a glass or stainless steel bowl. I will repeat the process with this same jar of material with about 8 to 16 ounces of solvent, depending on the strain. I only shake that around for a few seconds, and then quickly pour off solvent using the metal strainer.

Before starting on a new jar of buds from the freezer I will filter the THC solvent through a fine metal coffee filter into a fresh bowl.

Then I repeat the initial process with the remaining jars of bud in the freezer, one at a time.

I prefer to use the glass canning jars because they stay cold for a long time.

When I have all of the THC solvent roughed in, I will then filter it a couple more times using a metal mesh coffee filter, and then a paper coffee filter. I am considering investing into some of those bubble bags. I have tried this without using the paper coffee filters and only using the fine mesh metal coffee filter and I have not noticed a difference as long as I filter it multiple times. I like to let the THC solvent sit in the bowl for a while so all the crud can sink to the bottom. Then I will carefully pour the solvent through the metal mesh coffee filter careful not to allow the sediment to pour out. I have quite a bit of practice at this, but you may prefer to just use the paper coffee filter.

I don't really have a basic filtering preference yet, still working on that. The oil is coming out pretty much the same for me whether I use the paper coffee filters or not.

After all of the solvent has been filtered, I move to the rice cooker and follow Rick's directions from there.

Another tip, when it gets to the coffee cup warmer stage, I like to use a heavy duty metal one cup measuring cup and use a metal spoon to stir the oil around often to keep the heat even throughout. I have learned with this method, if you don't stir it around often the bottom portion becomes thicker than what is on top. Towards the end, to get the final little bit of solvent evaporated out, I like to put some pennies or another type of coin between the cup and the warmer to help eliminate burning of the oil, I will let it sit at that point without stirring. Patience pays off on this.

At this point it is pretty much done.

I have definitely noticed that the higher the quality of the buds the better the oil comes out.

Update-More Experience with my material: After making more batches of oil, I am not using the paper coffee filters anymore. Just my preference, I prefer to get it filtered as fast as possible. I just use the metal reusable coffee filters. I will filter the solvent several times and in between filtering I will allow the dish with the solvent to sit for about 5 or 10 minutes to allow the sediment to settle to the bottom and eliminate it clogging the filter.

I try to let gravity do most of the filtering.

It is very important to make no exceptions in many of the processes. Like the solvent. Many people do not have the patience and will not wait to obtain the right equipment or solvent. Impatience leads to waste and an end product that is less than par. The solvent I recommend is either 99% isopropyl alcohol or a safer solvent would be 190 Everclear. At this point in Michigan, you are much better off ordering one of the two online. You can also use any 190 proof grain alcohol, no less than 190 proof or 99% isopropyl alcohol. These are the two solvents I would choose from, they are a bit weaker than others, but in my opinion, much safer than the alternative.

Use a coffee mug warmer, no exceptions. One person used a coffee pot warmer plate and his entire batch of oil was destroyed. It looked great but it had zero potency and his starting bud material was very potent.

Patience in purging: I have found out time and time again the better the job I do making the oil, the more patient I am. After the oil is completely finished and put into the syringes, it takes anywhere from two to eight weeks before the oil fully decarbs and reaches its fullest potency.

I have found during the purging process, after half is purged, put one to two layers of nickels between the coffee mug warmer and the metal cup or pan the oil is in. A lot of gentle stirring is required. Using my frozen extraction methods, I have found that it is a bit more difficult to fully purge. It seems that the cleaner the oil, the more time it takes to purge the solvent. What I like to do is when most is purged out, take it off the warmer, and let it sit overnight. You can put the cup into a baggie after the cup cools down to keep dust out, leave the baggie open so it can ventilate. The key is patience and having all of the space and materials you need before you start. This is not a project you want to start in the evening that is for certain! Put it back onto the warmer after the cooling and ventilation. It may take a bit for it to fully heat back up and bubbling, but when it does, be sure to stir it around often. You may even want to repeat this once or twice more, the cooling and reheating of the oil on the coffee cup warmer. As more solvent is purged out, the bubbles will get smaller. This method of purging, I believe it helps with preserving the medicinal values of the product, especially the CBDs or at least many of them. The gentler you are, the longer it may take for the oil to fully decarb. I have found it to be worth the time. From now on, after getting the oil into the syringes, I am waiting 8 weeks for the oil to fully decarb. There is nothing wrong with sampling the oil on the spot and start using it if you have to. I just feel it is a bit wasteful THC wise because it has not reached its fullest potency.

Continued on Page 2 . . .

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