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Page 5

Basically what I am saying here is RSO is looking obsolete to me compared to this naturally decarbed oil I have discovered. I wish I had testing and proof, but keep in mind, testing does not cover all of the medicinal aspects.

The buzz seems noticeably different but just as intense as RSO. I think I may like it better. It kind of seems like a cleaner buzz. All three doses I have taken, I could feel the effects for 24 hours. With my RSO and the same size doses, I think I usually feel the effects for more like 18 hours, but I am not 100% confident on that. The length of time may be the same. What is kind of unique here is I have been growing these same strains for many years as well as producing the oil from the same strains for many years. So when there is some form of difference with my oil or one of my strains, I will notice it right away.

Going by my first impression, this is the oil I will be taking from now on. I can't wait to make my next batch of QWET and naturally decarb it. Basically all organic with absolutely no heat and potentially all of the medicinal values of the marijuana buds.

No need to worry about going outside with the rice cooker. Don't have to be concerned with blowing yourself up, well not as concerned, it still can be dangerous. Just blowing the fumes outside with a fan seems a lot safer to me than boiling it with a rice cooker.

When you get done harvesting your plants you don't throw them in the oven to dry them out and use right away right? Right, because it will cause damage and degrade the medicine. Well, I am starting to feel the same way about oil. Trying to decarb it early with heat, you are ruining the potential of your medicine. Now that I know that the oil can decarb by itself and come out great, it gives me comfort to know that many more patients will be able to treat themselves. They can start off with smaller amounts until they get confidence. Yes, there will be a waiting perriod for the product to be ready. Small batches can be made weekly, dated, and stored until time to use. Patience pays off.

I will follow up after taking more doses. My first impression could change.

I will also discuss later on how I keep it in SAP form and use grain alcohol.

Jul 19 2014
gg, another great discovery by the goddess of oil! I've read your RSO blog et al, but as you've experimented and changed steps here and there, would you mind doing us all a favor and do a brief recap of exactly your method for the no- heat QWISO SAP? I for one, and I'm sure many others, would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

Jul 19 2014
I will real soon medmanmike. I will give a complete walk through.

It would be easier if I did a video, but I will do my best to put into words.

Jul 20 2014
A walk through on how I make my naturally decarbed oil-sap.

This is the method I have used. I am sure there are others who have their preferences. A video would probably be more helpful, but for now, this is what I can offer.

First, one ounce of bone dry buds, the best you can get. Preferably a couple of strains mixed. I like to use indica dominant strains.

Place the ounce of bone dry buds into a 1 pint canning jar, seal the jar and place in the freezer.

Place the solvent (190 proof or higher grain alcohol (you can use 99% iso but you want to be sure it is all purged out)) into the freezer with the buds. 1 fifth should be plenty. This is to ensure that the solvent and buds are at the same temperature.

I do not recommend using 99% iso for a solvent if at all possible to avoid.

Keep the buds and solvent in the freezer for at least 48 to 72 hours. Longer is okay.

Quickly pour the solvent into the jar of buds to about half way. Put the lid back onto the jar and shake. The buds should just crumble. After the buds are crumbled, usually less than a minute as long as the buds are dry enough. If needed, add a bit more solvent.

Quickly pour off the solvent through a wire mesh strainer into a bowl. Try to keep the strainer as close to the jar as possible so the bud material does not leave the jar. This will help eliminate any bud material from getting into the solvent.

Put any bud material that remained in the strainer back into the jar and repeat the process two more times. That gives you a total of three rinses. The second and third are done more quickly and less solvent is required, just enough to soak the material.

Now you have a bowl filled with solvent and cannabis extract. The next steps are filtering. I like to let gravity do most of the filtering for me. Allow the bowl to sit and let the sediment settle to the bottom.

Gently pour the solvent through a reusable metal mesh coffee filter (a paper coffee filter can be used if you don’t have a reusable one).  Be sure to try to let the sediment remain in the bowl without going into the coffee filter. I like to do this a couple of times using 2 bowls, each time allowing sediment to settle to the bottom, 15 minutes up to an hour depending on your preference.

After you feel that the solvent mixture is nice and clean and all of the sediment has been removed, it is time to transfer into a pyrex baking dish.

Put the dish in a safe, well ventilated area, near an open window with a fan blowing across it. Use no heat; only use the fan to assist in the evaporation of the solvent.

As the solvent evaporates, you will notice that some white foam is starting to build up. That is water from the solvent (alcohol).  I don’t allow the concentrate to dry all the way. I like to add a little more solvent (alcohol) in before the concentrate dries. It should be sappy at this point, but some water spots. So, I add a small amount of alcohol into the pyrex baking dish and stir it around. Then I will transfer the mixture into a one cup heavy duty metal measuring cup (it will not fill the cup). At this point, I will let a fan blow over the cup to help a majority of the alcohol to evaporate off. I am accustomed to doing large quantities. For smaller quantities you will probably want to put a coin under one side of the cup so the oil will lightly puddle to one end. This part of the process will require occasional stirring, using a toothpick will be adequate, to assist in the evaporation. The quantity will dictate how much stirring is required. Once a day, twice per day, it depends on how much is in the cup. Smaller quantities may get to the desired sap state in one day. The larger the quantity the longer it will take. You must also take into account the air humidity.

Put a coffee filter over the cup secured with a rubber band. This keeps the dust out. Place the cup in a dark well ventilated area. Let it sit and naturally evaporate until it is like a thick sap. You may have to stir it a couple of times to aid in the evaporation. This may take a week or so. The goal is to avoid heat to keep all of the medicinal properties in the oil.

When you believe the solvent has evaporated and the concentrate is a thick sap, it is time to get it into syringes for storage. This is a process that may require very minimal heat to allow the oil to flow better into the syringe. The best way for this minimal heat that I know of is to use a seedling heating mat with a thermostat so you do not exceed 100 degrees F. Update: I did a couple of sample runs and it was too thick to suck up into my syringes without exceeding 100-110 degrees F. A solution to this problem, especially with 99% iso, this is one of the main reasons why I don't recommend using iso. I prefer no heat whatsoever. What I had to do is suck it up into a syringe before it was fully purged. Then I injected it into a 4 gram vial. I will allow it to finish naturally purging in the vial. This is the only way I can see being able to use iso in the process. You can't really add grain alcohol to it to think it up because it will clump up and make your oil look crappy. I am starting to like a little bit of grain alcohol left behind because the oil dissolves on my tongue instantly and the medicated feeling hits me faster. So again, even with grain alcohol, if you want it fully purged, you will most likely need to use a syringe as a tool to get the more liquid oil into a small vial since it will eventually be too thick to suck it up into the syringe without exceeding the 110 Degree F limit for the terpines. This is what I am going to do for now on. I am not going to worry about it finishing purging in the vial because I am going to use organic or grain alcohol. I am really liking the idea of using the dropper for dosing.

Continued on Page 6 . . .

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