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Page 27
Mar 26 2015
This was a response to somebody that was interested in the difference between the 192 proof vodka and 200 proof KleenXtract.
The 192 vodka or 190 everclear, I am all done. Unless I am using it to clean up materials. The white milky effect at the end of evaporating, I cannot have that. It is a potential for mold. Knowing that, I get rid of the water then add fresh alcohol. Now that I know the KleenEtract, 200 proof organic, ethanol does not have the water effect at the end of evaporating, even less than 99% iso, I will be using the KleenXtract from now on for any oil made with the intention of ingesting.
I have to admit there are 2 other options that may be preferred by others when it comes to alcohol. Using 99% iso for the extraction. It does provide a more clean product, great for vaping or smoking and it is less expensive. Then the second use for 99% iso would be to make a pure THC oil. When the 99% iso oil is done, then winterize with the 200 proof. 192 vodka will work for the winterizing, but I think I prefer the 200 proof. After winterizing it removes a lot of the medicinal properties with the exception of the THC. Keep in mind I am always referring to using bud for the extractions. Leaf and shake may not offer the same results. Naturally decarbed after winterizing is different than any other product I have used. A super clean visual buzz.
The naturally decarbed ND Sap compared to RSO I have noticed large gains in medicinal properties with the Sap and the buzz is so much more comfortable you can't compare it, at least for me. Everybody does have their personal preference. Now that I am not used to RSO and recently tried it again, it is almost like a powerful synthetic buzz. I am all for the no heat procedure. It is just so much more smooth.
I am not in it for the looks anymore. I am in it for all of the medicinal properties. The pictures I showed of the ND Sap I just made were scraped off the side of the dish, no sediment. I wanted to keep some of the sediment because some of the terpenes sink to the bottom and some float on top. You can see it in the solvent during evaporation. Now that I know, I have been paying more close attention to this. It is worth paying attention too if you are in it for the medicinal properties. Don't worry about the looks whether it comes out brown or dark.
Anyway, you can see the difference right here in a super dry atmosphere with my wood burners cranked up. The milky looking one was done with 192 proof. It is not as bad with the air being more dry, but it is still bad with water. You can see the other cup there is no milky water on top that is the 200 proof KleenXtract. Because of this, I will be using KleenXtract from now on.
Yes, my product would be far more pretty if I only used 99% iso, but it would not be as safe to make, it would not be as safe to ingest, and I do not believe it would carry as much medicinal value. Just my opinion.
In my opinion all three alcohols have a purpose. For ingesting I am liking the KleenXtract the best so far. I have heard of other people obtaining 200 proof ethanol from other companies besides KleenXtract.
This is the oil in storage. This is my first time keeping it in a full liquid state. I am hoping it will help the decarbing. I will follow up when I open the caps and how soon it decarbs.
Cleaning up the low grade and high grade with the 200 proof. So I consider it low grade. A couple of grams and I might let this sit in the syringe to decarb. The way I have the syringe in the jar for back up, it should not be able to leak or pop the cap off from the CO2 release while decarbing.
 
Mar 31 2015
I am also posting this here for you MedmanMike!!
A copy of an entry I posted on another blog.
A recent reply I gave to someone on exactly how I make my ND Sap because they were looking for something with a less intense jittery buzz that they get from Green Dragon and RSO. If I should discover a different method I will certainly share it. Still experimenting to get it mastered. It will take some time, but I am confident the naturally decarbed oil is what is for me. I can see someone preferring RSO with the more uppity zingy buzz, but the ND Sap feels more comfortable, is longer lasting, and more mellow.
"Here is what I recommend based upon the experience I have. It may not be for everyone, but have found it to be best for me.
I don't really care for the extreme intense buzz. Like you mentioned, I want something that is nice and mellow but long lasting. I don't have 100% experience yet with the ND Sap oil, but at this point, I have 2 recommendations that I am working with. One is longer lasting and the other is really enjoyable visual effect for a good 24 hours. The non winterized method lasts at least 48 hours if not longer, that is taking it everyday. Just a small maintenance dose. I use fresh premium bud that is very dry. I store the buds in mason jars. With both methods I put the alcohol in the freezer. The more medicinal, full spectrum method, after everything is frozen for a few days, I will use the 200 proof KleenXtract organic ethanol. I pull the jar of buds and alcohol out of the freezer. Pour the alcohol into the jar with buds until the liquid line goes above the half way point then I will put the cover back on and shake the jar. The buds should crumble almost instantly. With the first wash, I will shake for an additional 20 to 30 seconds after the buds completely crumble. I immediately strain it into a bowl, not filter, strain with a wire mesh strainer for the purpose of straining quickly. I will add more alcohol to the jar with the bud material, usually just a little above the bud line. I will just shake it a few times and strain it quickly again. I will repeat that one more time so that would be three rinses (you can get a fourth rinse or long soak, but I recommend to keep that separate from the other to be used in a topical solution or something else). At this point I will have a second bowl of the same size. I usually use stainless steel mixing bowls, but glass would work just fine. I will allow the THC solvent to sit for 10 to 20 minutes, sometimes longer. Then I filter it to the other bowl using a reusable metal mesh coffee filter. Again I let the solution to sit sometimes up to an hour. I call this a type of gravity filtering. You may want to do that a couple more times. After filtered and there is not much sediment left, then I will filter it one last time, you can use a paper filter if you want at this point. I usually don't but sometimes I do. This last filtering goes into the pyrex baking dish. The larger the dish, the more quickly the solvent will evaporate due to the larger surface area. I open a couple of windows in the room and have a fan blow across it to aid in the evaporation. In the winter when the air is more dry in the house I usually don't even use the fan. When it is basically finished evaporating where it is dry in some spots and a little wet in others I will add some more of the 200 proof and use a mini spatula and gently stir it around and make sure I get all of the oil that stuck on the sides. I will then pour that off into either a glass or stainless steel measuring cup. I allow it to evaporate from there. While it is still liquid I will pour it into a vial, but only fill it half way. Then I seal the vial and put it or them into another jar. I am not sure if it is best to weekly crack the vial open after shaking to release the CO2 as it starts to build up or just leave them sealed for the 100 days and maybe shake them, but not open. I am doing a comparison right now with my most recent batch. Then, I plan to let the 200 proof to fully evaporate, after I believe the solution is finished decarbing. I will know it is finished decarbing when the CO2 pressure stops building up. You will be able to tell over time. After it is fully evaporated and is down to the thickness of honey, I will add a bit of 190 or 192 proof grain alcohol to thin it out so I can use a dropper for dosing. I prefer it to be slightly diluted with alcohol so it will quickly absorb rather than have a bunch of sticky stuff in my mouth. At this point I consider the product to be finished.
Now for option 2, I will use 99% isopropyl alcohol for the extraction using the same method as stated above. After it is first purged of the iso I will then dilute it with 190 proof or higher grain alcohol. Put it into a small jar then into the freezer. I will leave that in the freezer for a couple of days. I will then filter with a paper coffee filter and get it into a vial. I like to use a syringe to do this. I will then allow it to do the 100 day decarb, keeping it in a liquid state with the grain alcohol. After it is decarbed, I will allow it to evaporate to the desired thickness.
I consider these to be 2 completely different oils. The first is more medicinal that lasts longer. The second method, by winterizing, it is more of a pure THC oil. It does not last as long. It offers a comfortable visual buzz and is very potent, but not an uncomfortable intensity.
Hope this helps!
I think you are making the right decision. Experimenting in all aspects, as long as the methods are safe, is a great idea to discover what is best for you."
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